OFM’s classic cookbook: The Greens Cookbook by Deborah Madison

Deborah Madison was a pioneer of meat-free menus. David Tanis recalls the pleasures of her San Francisco restaurant’s cookbook

Deborah Madison is one of the most prolific food writers, beloved by vegetarians and omnivores alike for more than 30 years. We have known each other for at least that long, shared meals and worked together. I’m one of her most ardent fans.

Though claiming not to be a strict vegetarian herself, she has spent a lifetime attending to the flowering of modern vegetarian cuisine. (And every meal I ever had at her table has been vegetarian except once.) Deborah’s very first cookery book, the Greens Cookbook, co-written with Edward Espe Brown and published in 1987, established her as an expert in her field.