Mark of the Week—Can you Identify It?

Mar 15, 2023

187163 — This mark, used by a costume jewelry designer known for his exemplary work, is often mistaken for a bird’s head, but it is a French Phrygian cap.

Costume-jewelry fans wanting to add dramatic and first-rate pieces to their collection seek the work of Marcel Boucher, one of the most esteemed 20th-century designers.

Born in Paris in 1898, Boucher started as an apprentice designer and mold maker at the French jewelry house Cartier. He transferred to Cartier’s New York branch in the early 1920s. However, when the Depression dropped the demand for fine jewelry, he moved to Mazer Bros., which specialized in making affordable copies of high-end pieces.

Vintage marcel boucher lyre bird 1 2d9c60634871538974928a78c67ed61d — Some of Marcel Boucher’s most coveted and valuable designs are his bird brooches. This sparkling rhinestone lyrebird perched on a branch sold in January 2023 for $825.

After establishing his own company in 1937, Marcel Boucher Ltd. (later renamed Marcel Boucher et Cie), Boucher produced designs many consider some of the best costume jewelry ever made. His bold and imaginative pieces feature rhinestones resembling gemstones, superb simulated pearls, intricate metalwork, and colorful, shimmering enamels.

His exotic bird brooches are among his most iconic and coveted jewelry items. They feature vibrant enamels with three-dimensional designs that make them look ready to take flight. His mechanical pieces are also valuable, including the “Punchinello” figural, which moves its arms and legs when a chain is pulled.

Vintage marcel boucher pea pod 1 a87b2e6f6eb4494d8657391d43aabf00 — Boucher was noted for his work with enamels, which he crafted into big, bold brooches in the form of fruits and vegetables. This realistic pea pod circa 1941 sold in December 2022 for $3,000.

Other popular pieces are from his “Parisina” line, which he produced after moving to Mexico in the 1940s. This jewelry line utilizes sterling silver and pays homage to France and the traditional artistry of Mexican silversmiths.

Collectors often seek Boucher’s early designs, though these detailed pieces can sell for thousands. On the other hand, his pieces made in the 1950s and 1960s are more affordable but just as collectible, including matched sets and designs with cabochon stones. Collectors also pursue his whimsical and chic designs from this era, ranging from animal brooches to button bracelets.

Vintage signed marboux 55 marcel 1 a7e4ad7a8c53b31ab2eafaba03697e27 2 — In 1955, Boucher made a more affordable line of jewelry called Marboux. Pieces like this gold-tone choker with red thermoset leaves will be marked “Marboux.”

Vintage signed marboux 55 marcel 1 a7e4ad7a8c53b31ab2eafaba03697e27 1 — In 1955, Boucher made a more affordable line of jewelry called Marboux. Pieces like this gold-tone choker with red thermoset leaves will be marked “Marboux.”

If you would like to learn more about Marcel Boucher, check out our WorthPoint® tools, such as our Marks database and Dictionary page on the French designer.

Adina K. Francis has been a writer and editor in the antiques and collectibles field for more than 20 years. She has a bit of an obsession with the Victorians and thinks that dogs are one of life’s greatest gifts.

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